We left Stresa today and headed to Verona. We stopped at Como along the way and spent a couple of hours having a walk around the lakeside. Only a hop away from Switzerland from here. Very hot day though (37 degrees). Como is a very nice place. Quite a different feel to Stresa, from what we saw there are less very expensive hotels along the water front and so it seems less commercial. Cool old houses with gated boat houses onto the lake.
From Como to Verona. Once again a slow trip. The distances bely the time that it takes, but that is partly due to our determination to avoid the toll roads, which we feel would be quicker, but we would experience less of the countryside. However the backend of a truck isn’t always the countryside that we imagined.
Arrived in Verona about 6pm and finally found somewhere to sleep and more importantly to park the car (which seems often to be more of an issue). But after settling in and having a walk around, we have decided to stay an extra day. It looks like it has a fantastic historical centre and is called ‘Little Rome’. More on that tomorrow. (Photos to come)
Tuesday, 26 May 2009
LAKES DISTRICT
Heading inland now towards Milan, but decided to head for the lakes. Through these hills it takes a long time to get anywhere. We see a distance of 250kms and think it will be about 3 hrs drive, but 5.5 hrs later we get there. The first part of the journey from Genova is going from village to village, with no gaps inbetween. These villages are built straight onto the street. I guess they started originally as cart tracks. Very pretty in their own way. Ancient old buildings with balconies.
We wound our way through and suddenly it opened up into wide open spaces where they grow a lot of what appears to be rice.
Headed up to Lago Maggiore to a place called Stresa. We couldn’t find anywhere budget to stay here and so carried on slightly north and found a cabin in a camping ground beside the lake. Four beds, private bathroom, kitchette, and a drying rack. By now washing our clothes has become a primary concern. Well not so much washing, as being in one place long enough to dry them. So we are here for two nights so we can have a day of rest. We are very close to the Swiss border here and it is much cooler, but still about 30 degrees.
Went to go for a swim in the lake today. We wondered why everyone was sunbaking and not swimming. We soon found out. It must have been about 10 degrees. We were both determined to submerse ourselves and did so twice … very quickly. However drying in the sun afterwards was wonderful.
We wound our way through and suddenly it opened up into wide open spaces where they grow a lot of what appears to be rice.
Headed up to Lago Maggiore to a place called Stresa. We couldn’t find anywhere budget to stay here and so carried on slightly north and found a cabin in a camping ground beside the lake. Four beds, private bathroom, kitchette, and a drying rack. By now washing our clothes has become a primary concern. Well not so much washing, as being in one place long enough to dry them. So we are here for two nights so we can have a day of rest. We are very close to the Swiss border here and it is much cooler, but still about 30 degrees.
Went to go for a swim in the lake today. We wondered why everyone was sunbaking and not swimming. We soon found out. It must have been about 10 degrees. We were both determined to submerse ourselves and did so twice … very quickly. However drying in the sun afterwards was wonderful.
To GENOVA via PORTOVENERE
Next morning we headed out towards the peninsula of Portovenere. We were just giving up on finding somewhere to park when some one offered us their parking ticket. This is another example of the hospitality that we have received. Had a short walk around Portovenere. Deckchairs our in the sun (which need to be paid for) where you can sit on the pebbles and look at the water. People sunbathing on slabs of rock. As well as all the little fishing boats there are ferries here that will take you around the islands. Our impression is that it is a little like Devonport where people go for the day as there were lots of school groups, restaurants and daytrippers on the ferries. Very nice place and very pretty.
From here to Portofino through lots of tunnels. The tunnels ranged from 200m to 1800m and were only interspersed by viaducts. This is very steep country. We thought the roads were narrow before, well this is ridiculous. We didn’t get to stop in Portofino as there was nowhere to stop. We happened to meet a bus on the very narrowest piece of road which meant juggling backwards and forwards, avoiding the scooters parked in the ditch and having literally only a couple of inches to spare. My advice to anyone, would be to go there by bus and then you might get to see it. Lots of glitz and very big boats.
On to Genova. Set the GPS for the tourist office (to find accommodation) and started heading through very narrow streets. Everytime we have thought that they couldn’t get ant narrower, they do. We ended up going down these tiny medieval streets that ended in deadends. GPS lady telling us to go left when there was no road. We were heading down a tiny street when road workers pulled across a barrier in front of us, yelling at us to go back, they were going home for the day (it’s Friday), and a truck behind us telling us to keep going. Somehow we backed down non existent streets and got out of there. But yes, we did find somewhere to sleep. I think Justine must be good luck, we haven’t had to sleep in our car yet.
Went for a walk and to find dinner. In a medieval way it is probably quite a nice place, but we don’t intend to hang around.
From here to Portofino through lots of tunnels. The tunnels ranged from 200m to 1800m and were only interspersed by viaducts. This is very steep country. We thought the roads were narrow before, well this is ridiculous. We didn’t get to stop in Portofino as there was nowhere to stop. We happened to meet a bus on the very narrowest piece of road which meant juggling backwards and forwards, avoiding the scooters parked in the ditch and having literally only a couple of inches to spare. My advice to anyone, would be to go there by bus and then you might get to see it. Lots of glitz and very big boats.
On to Genova. Set the GPS for the tourist office (to find accommodation) and started heading through very narrow streets. Everytime we have thought that they couldn’t get ant narrower, they do. We ended up going down these tiny medieval streets that ended in deadends. GPS lady telling us to go left when there was no road. We were heading down a tiny street when road workers pulled across a barrier in front of us, yelling at us to go back, they were going home for the day (it’s Friday), and a truck behind us telling us to keep going. Somehow we backed down non existent streets and got out of there. But yes, we did find somewhere to sleep. I think Justine must be good luck, we haven’t had to sleep in our car yet.
Went for a walk and to find dinner. In a medieval way it is probably quite a nice place, but we don’t intend to hang around.
CINQUE TERRE
The Cinque Terre is a series of five little fishing villages (Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, Monterosso) set along the coast. This is a world heritage site and you can walk a track all the way along. Starting from the most eastern end, the track is very easy. It is a wide cobble path filled with older overweight American tourists. As you go from villiage to village it gets progressively harder, until between the last to villages the track is a goat track. Very, very narrow, and almost vertical in places. But the sights are worth it. Walking through tracks experiencing amazing beauty. Through narrow village streets (1.5 m wide). Front doors opening directly onto the street. These villages are set precariously into the sides of rocky lumps of land. You would have to be really determined to live here. It makes you wonder why their ancestors chose these places to settle. You know when get to the end village, because that is the most commercial. Lots of expensive restaurants, and as we heard, an English tourist looking for ‘Fish ‘n’ chips’!
But let’s go back to the start of the day. We were told that the easiest way to get there from where we were was to get the bus to the La Spezia train station, and then catch the train to Riomaggiore. We wrongly assumed that the bus would go to the train station. It didn’t. After an hour on the bus were back in the general central area of La Spezia. We got off the bus and tried to find the train station without a map. After asking lots of directions we finally got there after another hour and circumnavigating the city. Of course the train left while we were in the queue for the tickets. Once we got onto the train it only took ten minutes to get there.
But once there it was well worth it. Once again the way we start the day usually seems to be more then compensated by what we get to experience. This really is a wonderful adventure.
Trying to find the bus home again at night was another adventure.
But let’s go back to the start of the day. We were told that the easiest way to get there from where we were was to get the bus to the La Spezia train station, and then catch the train to Riomaggiore. We wrongly assumed that the bus would go to the train station. It didn’t. After an hour on the bus were back in the general central area of La Spezia. We got off the bus and tried to find the train station without a map. After asking lots of directions we finally got there after another hour and circumnavigating the city. Of course the train left while we were in the queue for the tickets. Once we got onto the train it only took ten minutes to get there.
But once there it was well worth it. Once again the way we start the day usually seems to be more then compensated by what we get to experience. This really is a wonderful adventure.
Trying to find the bus home again at night was another adventure.
To LA SPEZIA via PISA
Headed north to Pisa. Found the Leaning tower and parked the car 20 mins walk away from the Piazza. This is definitely a tourist hotspot. With markets flogging their tourist wares and more tour groups then you could shake a stick at. And of course the guys flogging sunglasses, parasols, umbrellas (if there is a hint of rain), roses, etc.
We first experienced the rose sellers in Rome. They have an interesting way of working. We had one come and give Justine a rose. When she said no, he said no "for free" and then spent the next 20 minutes chasing us around telling us both how good we looked and asking me for "a little something". Every time Justine tried to give it back he said no and then would come around to the other side of me and ask me for "a little something". In the end I did get him to take it back and we saw him move on to someone else. We have now learnt to give them a very aggressive "Non" and they scuttle away. The rose sellers are everywhere. We did have another gelato here. As you can expect the more popular the tourist spot, the smaller the gelato is that you get. The leaning tower must be popular because the gelato was tiny.
We didn’t go up the tower, you need to book ahead and it wasn’t something that we desperately wanted to do. They are in the process of cleaning the building and it will look stunning when completed. As important as the leaning tower, are the buildings around it. Once again huge white Basilicas.
We started heading north again and thought we would stay in La Spezia for the night before heading up to the Cinque Terre for a walk tomorrow. Followed the GPS lady into some very tight spots and figured that if we did find somewhere to stay, there wouldn’t have parking anyway. Headed out towards Portovenere. Found somewhere to stay just before Portovenere. A restaurant with a room upstairs. Another quaint little fishing village. Parking was on the soccer field, where you bought an all day pass. But this is not a soccer field as we know it, this was gravel with goal posts at each end. Makes you wonder if they use a rock for a ball. These guys are hard :-)
Had dinner at a little Osteria, with mainly seafood (not Justine’s cup of tea) so she had spaghetti and peso (how can some thing so simple be so yummy) and I had ravioli and Batti Batti (a local crustacean). They were also serving NZ Angus beef steak on salad. The steak was minimal and the price 18 Euros.
We first experienced the rose sellers in Rome. They have an interesting way of working. We had one come and give Justine a rose. When she said no, he said no "for free" and then spent the next 20 minutes chasing us around telling us both how good we looked and asking me for "a little something". Every time Justine tried to give it back he said no and then would come around to the other side of me and ask me for "a little something". In the end I did get him to take it back and we saw him move on to someone else. We have now learnt to give them a very aggressive "Non" and they scuttle away. The rose sellers are everywhere. We did have another gelato here. As you can expect the more popular the tourist spot, the smaller the gelato is that you get. The leaning tower must be popular because the gelato was tiny.
We didn’t go up the tower, you need to book ahead and it wasn’t something that we desperately wanted to do. They are in the process of cleaning the building and it will look stunning when completed. As important as the leaning tower, are the buildings around it. Once again huge white Basilicas.
We started heading north again and thought we would stay in La Spezia for the night before heading up to the Cinque Terre for a walk tomorrow. Followed the GPS lady into some very tight spots and figured that if we did find somewhere to stay, there wouldn’t have parking anyway. Headed out towards Portovenere. Found somewhere to stay just before Portovenere. A restaurant with a room upstairs. Another quaint little fishing village. Parking was on the soccer field, where you bought an all day pass. But this is not a soccer field as we know it, this was gravel with goal posts at each end. Makes you wonder if they use a rock for a ball. These guys are hard :-)
Had dinner at a little Osteria, with mainly seafood (not Justine’s cup of tea) so she had spaghetti and peso (how can some thing so simple be so yummy) and I had ravioli and Batti Batti (a local crustacean). They were also serving NZ Angus beef steak on salad. The steak was minimal and the price 18 Euros.
LEAVING ROME
This was an adventure in itself. We left via termini as planned to go to the airport and pick up our car. We were to go to ‘Terminal 2’ and ring them once there and they would come and get us. Well there is no ‘Terminal 2’, only A, B, C, D and 5! Went to the rental car area and tried to ring the number that we had been given (we had already rung a few days earlier as arranged). We were to meet at 1200 hrs and they would only wait for 30 minutes. No coin phones, phones wouldn’t take credit cards so after running back 300 m to buy a phone card that would work, tried to ring, no answer. Went into the office to confirm that it was a valid number, tried another number still no answer. Buried in our papers found another number which was the Paris number. Rang that, and they used up our entire credit whilst they put us on hold. Ran back to get another card. Came back, tried the Rome number again, still no answer. Rang Paris again and after discussion they decided that they would help us out as their normal phone lines were down (exceptional circumstances) and gave us another number. It is now 1250 hrs and I am in a sweat thinking that we are at the airport with our bags, no where to sleep and no transport. Managed to get through to Rome and they gave us 10 minutes to meet them outside the café at Terminal B. I just hoped that there wasn’t more than one café! Phew! There he is.
We picked up our car and started our exit from Rome. All I can say is thank God for GPS. But I think that perhaps the GPS voice lady may think that she drew the short straw. We became very familiar with her saying "Do a U turn now" or "Recalculating", so many missed turns. Thank God for GPS.
Headed north through Cititvecchia and Grosseto. Went through two toll booths before we figured out how to set the GPS to avoid the toll roads. Then it became more interesting wandering through back roads and detours to the sound of "Recalculating" and absorbing the landscape.
Started looking for somewhere to sleep. Of course when you are looking for somewhere to sleep all you see is places to eat and when you are looking for somewhere to eat all you see is places to sleep. As we were driving along we saw this fantastic little hilltop town, it looked like it had been an old medieval fort.
Finally found a sign pointing towards a B&B, it is now 7pm. Drove down some long dirt roads and arrived at this fantastic farmhouse B&B. The sort that you see in picture books, with a private bathroom, and a big soft bed. They also ran a restaurant but we decided to do cheap and find somewhere else. We drove down the road and followed the sign to a Osteria, and what do you know we ended up at the same hilltop town that we had seen earlier. Skinny little steep streets, and a fantastic meal.
Despite the way the day started, it couldn’t have ended better. So close to Rome and yet a world away.
The next morning, breakfast. The food just kept coming. Toasted brioche, blood grapefruit juice, coffee, yoghurt, cake, biscuits, prosciutto, cheese, apple pie, … We shared breakfast with a couple from Belgium and another couple from Switzerland (her parents also have a house in Sicily!). So we discussed the merits of Belgium and Swiss chocolate. It’s interesting the people you meet.
We picked up our car and started our exit from Rome. All I can say is thank God for GPS. But I think that perhaps the GPS voice lady may think that she drew the short straw. We became very familiar with her saying "Do a U turn now" or "Recalculating", so many missed turns. Thank God for GPS.
Headed north through Cititvecchia and Grosseto. Went through two toll booths before we figured out how to set the GPS to avoid the toll roads. Then it became more interesting wandering through back roads and detours to the sound of "Recalculating" and absorbing the landscape.
Started looking for somewhere to sleep. Of course when you are looking for somewhere to sleep all you see is places to eat and when you are looking for somewhere to eat all you see is places to sleep. As we were driving along we saw this fantastic little hilltop town, it looked like it had been an old medieval fort.
Finally found a sign pointing towards a B&B, it is now 7pm. Drove down some long dirt roads and arrived at this fantastic farmhouse B&B. The sort that you see in picture books, with a private bathroom, and a big soft bed. They also ran a restaurant but we decided to do cheap and find somewhere else. We drove down the road and followed the sign to a Osteria, and what do you know we ended up at the same hilltop town that we had seen earlier. Skinny little steep streets, and a fantastic meal.
Despite the way the day started, it couldn’t have ended better. So close to Rome and yet a world away.
The next morning, breakfast. The food just kept coming. Toasted brioche, blood grapefruit juice, coffee, yoghurt, cake, biscuits, prosciutto, cheese, apple pie, … We shared breakfast with a couple from Belgium and another couple from Switzerland (her parents also have a house in Sicily!). So we discussed the merits of Belgium and Swiss chocolate. It’s interesting the people you meet.
VATICAN CITY
WOW! That is all I can say. For such a tiny independent state everything in it is HUGE! We went up to St Peter’s Cupola (the walkway to the top of the dome). A fantastic view of Rome, then down into St Peter’s Basilica and then into the museum and finished in the Sistine Chapel. Once again, WOW! The size and scale of everything is just breathtaking. The artwork, the marble sculptures and statues, frescoes, tapestries, mosaic floors, the … grandiose splendour. Gold is everywhere. It doesn’t matter how many times you have seen these things in books, postcards and photographs, nothing prepares you for the real thing.
ROME
Arrived at 0730 hrs Friday 15 May. We are here for four nights.
Caught the train to the termini and then spent the next few hours trying to find our accommodation. It ended up almost next to the termini in the middle of Chinatown. After settling in we went for a bit of a wander and stumbled on a huge amazing church (Santa Maria Maggiore), the Trevi Fountain, and later the Colosseum (which we happened upon after getting lost in the dark). This was to set the pattern for the rest of our stay. Everywhere we went, every street, lane and backalley we went down we stumbled upon another HUGE amazing church stuck between buildings or another archeological ruin. And Rome just carries on around it. They don’t seem to make a big thing about their buildings and history, it just … is. It is what it is.
Over the next few days we went and saw a few of the other main sites. The Fori Imperiali, the Roman Forum, the Colosseum (of course), the Palatine, the Domus Aurea, the Pantheon, the Spanish Steps, and the list goes on. What we were weren’t prepared for was the size and scale of everything. These places really do have to be seen to be appreciated. We could easily spend another week here and still not see everything that we want to see. As you wander around the site of the Roman Forum and the houses of the vestal virgins, seeing the Colosseum not far away, the dome of St Peters you can’t help but imagine what an impressive place it would have been at its peak. Everywhere you look there is history going back thousands of years. This is the historic center of western civilization.
As for the traffic, that is another story. As you step outside there is only one word that sums up Rome and that is ‘Chaos’, or as we have learnt to say ‘Questa e nove da matti!’ – ‘This is insane!’ The scooters rule the roads and there are thousands of them, but the pedestrians have right of way, or at least think they do. There is only one way to cross a road and that is to step out and they will give way. Road rules are considered merely as a loose guide. But considering all this battling for position across the cobblestones and the frequent ‘discussions’ between drivers we never saw a single case of road rage. I guess a gelato every day and fantastic coffee make it all OK. Did I mention the coffee? It really is the best in the world.
Caught the train to the termini and then spent the next few hours trying to find our accommodation. It ended up almost next to the termini in the middle of Chinatown. After settling in we went for a bit of a wander and stumbled on a huge amazing church (Santa Maria Maggiore), the Trevi Fountain, and later the Colosseum (which we happened upon after getting lost in the dark). This was to set the pattern for the rest of our stay. Everywhere we went, every street, lane and backalley we went down we stumbled upon another HUGE amazing church stuck between buildings or another archeological ruin. And Rome just carries on around it. They don’t seem to make a big thing about their buildings and history, it just … is. It is what it is.
Over the next few days we went and saw a few of the other main sites. The Fori Imperiali, the Roman Forum, the Colosseum (of course), the Palatine, the Domus Aurea, the Pantheon, the Spanish Steps, and the list goes on. What we were weren’t prepared for was the size and scale of everything. These places really do have to be seen to be appreciated. We could easily spend another week here and still not see everything that we want to see. As you wander around the site of the Roman Forum and the houses of the vestal virgins, seeing the Colosseum not far away, the dome of St Peters you can’t help but imagine what an impressive place it would have been at its peak. Everywhere you look there is history going back thousands of years. This is the historic center of western civilization.
As for the traffic, that is another story. As you step outside there is only one word that sums up Rome and that is ‘Chaos’, or as we have learnt to say ‘Questa e nove da matti!’ – ‘This is insane!’ The scooters rule the roads and there are thousands of them, but the pedestrians have right of way, or at least think they do. There is only one way to cross a road and that is to step out and they will give way. Road rules are considered merely as a loose guide. But considering all this battling for position across the cobblestones and the frequent ‘discussions’ between drivers we never saw a single case of road rage. I guess a gelato every day and fantastic coffee make it all OK. Did I mention the coffee? It really is the best in the world.
SINGAPORE
Arrived at 1855 hrs. Our first impression when we left the airport building was the HEAT! Quite a clean city with no graffiti, not like South Auckland at all :-) Very cheap eats if you stick to the local Cuisine. Two meat and two veg for $3.90 at the food market next door.
Spent the day wandering around the central area. Everything that we imagined. Went for a ride on one of their ‘bum boats’ along the river. These were overrated, didn’t take us any further than we had already walked. But listening to the commentary they are very proud of their success and measure this by the amount and concentration of tall buildings. We were more impressed by some of the history and wandering around Raffles Hotel and seeing the old world charm, imagining what it must have been like in its heyday.
Impressions – the heat, how close Asia is to NZ (without the language barrier), commercialism, very sweet food, and disgusting coffee.
Spent the day wandering around the central area. Everything that we imagined. Went for a ride on one of their ‘bum boats’ along the river. These were overrated, didn’t take us any further than we had already walked. But listening to the commentary they are very proud of their success and measure this by the amount and concentration of tall buildings. We were more impressed by some of the history and wandering around Raffles Hotel and seeing the old world charm, imagining what it must have been like in its heyday.
Impressions – the heat, how close Asia is to NZ (without the language barrier), commercialism, very sweet food, and disgusting coffee.
Sunday, 10 May 2009
Almost ... but not quite
Murphy’s law states that if anything can possibly go wrong it will … and at the worst possible moment. Over the last few weeks we have tested this theory and proven it to be alive and well.
As some of you may know we were scheduled to start our overseas adventures almost a week ago, last Wednesday to be precise. By now we should be basking in the Mediterranean sun, sipping a Chianti or two and ogling the … Colosseum. But instead we are still here, worrying about the last minute packing, what we have forgotten to do, and looking out at another grey wet day as the colours of an Auckland winter start to settle in.
So why are we still here? More importantly, where do I start. Like I said if anything could have possibly gone wrong, it has. The last of which was waiting for the delivery of a very important package, Justine’s Passport and Visa from our dearest friends at the UK immigration service (now based in Canberra). But it has now arrived (on Saturday) all correctly stamped and approved and so we can now with some certainty say that we will be leaving these fair shores on Wednesday morning (two more sleeps). On the plus side, I like to think that by the law of averages, the agony endured so far must ensure that it will be smooth sailing from here on. Yeah OK, no guarantees I know, but let’s think positively :-) We will definitely keep you posted.
Here we are on the brink of the adventure that we have both been dreaming of … well forever. Hard to believe that we are almost there. First stop Singapore (36 hr stopover) on our way to Rome. The next time we post here we will be basking in the Mediterranean sun, sipping a Chianti or two and ogling the Colosseum.
As some of you may know we were scheduled to start our overseas adventures almost a week ago, last Wednesday to be precise. By now we should be basking in the Mediterranean sun, sipping a Chianti or two and ogling the … Colosseum. But instead we are still here, worrying about the last minute packing, what we have forgotten to do, and looking out at another grey wet day as the colours of an Auckland winter start to settle in.
So why are we still here? More importantly, where do I start. Like I said if anything could have possibly gone wrong, it has. The last of which was waiting for the delivery of a very important package, Justine’s Passport and Visa from our dearest friends at the UK immigration service (now based in Canberra). But it has now arrived (on Saturday) all correctly stamped and approved and so we can now with some certainty say that we will be leaving these fair shores on Wednesday morning (two more sleeps). On the plus side, I like to think that by the law of averages, the agony endured so far must ensure that it will be smooth sailing from here on. Yeah OK, no guarantees I know, but let’s think positively :-) We will definitely keep you posted.
Here we are on the brink of the adventure that we have both been dreaming of … well forever. Hard to believe that we are almost there. First stop Singapore (36 hr stopover) on our way to Rome. The next time we post here we will be basking in the Mediterranean sun, sipping a Chianti or two and ogling the Colosseum.
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