Chronicle for 16 May 2012

After packing our bags this morning we were back on the road again, today we are leaving Skye. But first we headed south and then west towards a little place called Elgol. Once again this involved single track winding roads with blind corners and blind summits, passing places scattered along with a varying degree of frequency. At times they were every few hundred yards, at other times we had to make a dash and just hope that we didn't meet any oncoming traffic before the next passing opportunity. Fortunately there weren't too many times when we had to back up, although there were times when we had to make a hurried stop.

The scenery was as incredible as we had been led to believe, with high peaks and lazy lochs on all sides.

We stopped along the way at a shop that boasted to be a 'world famous' knife maker. It wasn't so much a shop as a farm house / artisans studio. He was truly an artist creating jewellery and hand crafted Celtic knives. Within the setting of high lofty ceilings, wrought iron chandeliers, with the peaks and loch just outside it really was an experience. We didn't buy anything as much as would have loved too as the prices were waaaay beyond our budget. Great too look at though. The only other customer there had just bought something and as they thanked him as they left he responded with 'thank you for letting me take your money from you'. Brilliant Scottish practicality.

What we found out was that this family of Duncan's has been making knives for generations tracing their roots back to the knife makers and gamekeepers for Robert the Bruce. How's that for a lineage.

We pressed on towards Elgol, which is a very small place with just a few houses and a schoolhouse which looks like it would probably hold about ten kids. This the end of the road in a very remote part of the isle and we get the impression that the lifestyle here is a little alternative. The only reason most people would come here is to catch one of the boats to view the wildlife. From what we read they have an astounding variety including Basking Sharks and Golden Eagles. It has been my dream since a child to see a Golden Eagle in the wild. However today is not my day as much as I would like to be, as I suspect you need to know what you are looking for as well as a good set of binoculars. On my ignorance I hadn't thought that this was their habitat.

From Elgol, we looked out across Cuillian Sound at Rum Island and Canna Island beyond, and then closer in the other direction the peaks on the Cuillian Ranges, the backbone of this isle, disappearing into the misty rain that we have become accustomed too.

We went for a short walk across the rocks that make up this shoreline to admire not only the impressive rocks but also the fabulous view.

On leaving Elgol we returned back along the road before making our way back to the bridge, and saying goodbye to this wonderful idle.

We headed from here inland towards Invergarry before heading south towards Fort William and our final destination near Glen Coe in a place called North Ballachulish.

We are staying in a hotel which is more expensive than our usual fare and hoping for something a little bit special. On arrival we confirmed that you never quite know what you are going to get, and also that the price does not necessarily reflect the quality of the lodgings. This place looks very tired and looks like it hasn't had any improvements made since the current owners moved in in 1999. Fortunately we have also found the inverse on our travels where the cheapest places to stay have given us the best experiences. They are all memories that we will cherish.