We moved down the road to our B&B this morning, with much pleasure. And it seemed that others had the same idea of leaving as well. The B&B is a lovely little place, which includes a small kitchen, so we can finally get some self served meals going on.
The weather this morning is the same as yesterday, grey, cold and wet. Although it cleared up a bit yesterday so we are hoping for the same today. Despite the small size of this city, there is an astounding number of churches, and it was one of these churches that was our first stop today.
We went to the ‘Church of our Lady’, not just because of the church as such, but because this is where Michelangelo’s ‘Madonna and Child’ is located. The only one of his works outside of Italy. And she is fantastic. But we found a lot more in this church then we had expected. There was a display about a priest who came from the area. Father Damian, went to Hawaii to serve and take care of the lepers who had been placed there. After some years he contracted leprosy himself and died in 1889. He is now the patron Saint for Leprosy, HIV and Aids. A very interesting story, another opportunity for learning.
Later in the day we headed for another of the city churches, and this one is rather special. It is the ‘Basilica of the Holy Blood’. There is a phial that apparently contains Christ’s blood, located here. The Church is located in one of the city squares. As you enter the square and look around, you see a row of ornate pale stone buildings, with elaborate gold work, coats of arms, and flags. And then tucked in the corner, you see it, a grey looking building of smaller statue then its surroundings, made of grey stone, that looks like it has suffered from too many years of diesel fumes. However the eight large gold figurines mounted onto its façade give you some indication that you have come to the right place.
As you walk into the body of the Church you cannot help but be impressed by the artwork, the elaborately painted walls and pillars. Somehow after all that you have heard, you expect the Church to be bigger, but what you see before you seems to fit. The throne is on the right hand side of the Church, with a very po-faced priestess seated behind what can only be what you have come here to see. A short walk up the steps to the throne, you can lay your hands on the phial, say a short prayer, and make a donation (of course). Well to be more precise, you can lay your hands on the small Perspex cover, which protects the glass and gold cylinder, which contains the small phial, which contains the drops of Christ’s blood.
Is it really Christ’s blood? Who really knows. It has been scientifically proven that it is in fact blood, but the reason that it liquefies once a day is still under dispute. Is it the miracle of Christ, or is it a more scientific reason relating to temperature and humidity? What ever the reasons, it certainly looks like blood, and there is no shortage of people wanting to lay their hands on it and mutter a quiet prayer. But at least they make this relic accessible, which is more than they do in some places. The po-faced priestess, well she is there to make sure you make a donation and to wipe the Perspex clean with a Kleenex after every person. At first she seems a little off putting, but even that isn’t so bad.
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