PARIS – France (Mon 09 Nov)

Today we were on a mission, we went to the Cimetiere du Pere-Lachaise. This is the famous cemetery where a lot of the greats are buried. If you go there, you need a map (available free at some of the entrances), not to find your way there, but to find your way around it. It covers 43.2 hectares, it has 97 divisions, and over 800,000 people are buried there. We were given a map as we were entering, by someone that was leaving, with the words, “You will need it”, and they were right. What is nice about this cemetery is that it has all manner of grave stones, from large monuments, down to small simple stones, all mixed and mingled together. Some of the old ones are covered in moss and lichens that seems somehow appropriate.

The first grave that we came across (unexpectedly) was that of ‘Fred Chopin’, covered in wreaths and with a small gathering of admirers. After that we decided to draw up a systematic plan of how we were going to traverse this cemetery and see all the graves that we wanted to. We did manage to see them all (some with great difficulty finding) and many that we were surprised to find. We found Marcel Proust, Georges Bizet, Sarah Bernhardt, Eugene Delacroix, and finishing with Jim Morrison, Oscar Wilde, and Edith Piaf. That of Jim Morrison is just a simple granite block, tucked away behind some others, whilst that of Oscar Wilde is as you would expect, a large carved, square, stone monument, covered in graffiti and lipstick kisses. How apt.

As we were leaving the cemetery we walked down an avenue of monuments, in memoriam to the lost lives from various countries through war, in memoriam to the lost lives in the deportations and death camps, in memoriam to various tragedies though conflicts and air disasters. Some of these monuments had very graphic statues. Once again it served as another reminder of what the countries in this part of the world have gone through in wars and conflicts. Alongside the path was a strip of lawn which seemed to be set aside for the scattering of ashes, with ashes still visible and roses stuck into the ground in its path.

We went down the road to a small park, and there was yet another reminder. A monument and plaque dedicated to a group of small children who were deported to death camps from a nearby pre-school. It listed 133 of them, also listing their ages, which ranged from 20 days old to 6 years. Another reminder.

Via various others sites, places and distractions, we finally made it to the Galeries Lafayette, a huge department store complex. You know that you are getting close when you can see the huge flashing light facades creating a glow in the sky. It looks like a Christmas tree on steroids. In fact there was a Christmas tree inside reaching to the top of the eighth level. Although the bright pink lights and balls that it was decorated in seemed a little … girly for me. But then after 20 minutes of walking around, I found that this was the womenswear building. I should have been in the building next door (accessed via walkway) dedicated to menswear. This is more than a department store, it is a complex covering several buildings and blocks, filled to overflowing with all the big brands. None of the budget lines here, and not much use to a backpacker with small pockets. The main building (womenswear – funny that) has a huge illuminated dome roof, much like a cathedral. I guess that is appropriate.

We had one last stop today, and that was back to the Eiffel Tower at night, and ohh what a sight. They put on a special light show for us … well actually it is to celebrate its 120th Birthday. A light show three times, every night, for the month of November. A very cool show, sparlkling and flashing every combination of lights and colours, from the Tricolour to something resembling a disco ball.