Chronicle for 15 May 2012

We awoke to another wonderful day in the isles. The sun is shining and the lambs are bleating, however we aren't silly enough to go anywhere without a really good raincoat.

We're heading down country today, or rather down isle. We had planned on getting to a pottery that we have had our eye on at opening time (10am), although it seems we have slipped into island time as we will be lucky if we get there before 11am.

Nothing here is very far away, it is about 50 miles end to end, and it is very difficult to get really lost as there are very few roads and they are mostly well signposted. The signposting is probably because the locals get sick of the tourists mistaking their driveways for main roads. Often there isn't much difference. Due to the single track ponderous routes, these short distances do take relatively long times, often being limited to 30mph with frequent stops for oncoming cars. On the plus side it does force you to slow down and enjoy the isle. It also encouraged a friendlier disposition with everyone giving each other a smile and a wave as they pass. There is no point in being in a hurry in a place like this.

As it transpired we arrived at the pottery at 10:30am but we had to wait for the resident potter to wander down and open his studio once he saw that he had a customer. He had some wonderful pieces available with strong colours reminiscent of Morris & James. Most of the work that we have seen here has been very pale colours which isn't really our thing. He told us that this was because most of the work here is stoneware rather than earthenware and you can't get the strong vibrant colours.

From here we headed to Dunvegan Castle the home of the Clan MacLeod. It was interesting in that it is still a permanent residence. Apart from the usual fare of swords and portraits this castle shows off Bonnie Prince Charlie's waistcoat and a lock of his hair. As well as the drinking horn from which each MacLeod chief, including the current one, on his coming of age must drink the half gallon claret contents in one go. The 29th chief John MacLeod in 1956 downed it in one minute 57 seconds without 'setting it down or falling down'. That set the scene for a wander through the gardens.

By the time we finished there it was time for our lunch appointment. We treated ourselves today to a 'posh lunch' at a restaurant called the 'Three Chimneys'. It was a brilliant restaurant in a fantastic setting. A fairly small place in a converted crofters stone hut. The food was amazing and the service was definitely upmarket. Although because of the setting it didn't come across as being pretentious. Definitely the poshest place that we have eaten in thus far, a special treat and well enjoyed.

Our next destination was Neist point lighthouse. After meandering along a series of single track roads we parked our car in the designated spot and began our descent down a series of steps that brought back memories of part of the track up Mt Egmont. We were kept company by the sheep and fresh lambs clinging to the side of the hill. Looking back in the direction that we had come from and forwards in the direction that we were going, we were confronted with great walls of rock with a short area of pasture in between. The rock on front of us we skirted around, although many climbed to its summit, and on the other side was the lighthouse station, by all appearances long since disused. On doing a quick circuit around it we saw that there was a huge old fog horn arrangement sticking out over the rocks. This also looked as if it was many years since it has seen service. We have heard of some of these discontinued fog horns that in their day created such volume that they shook the foundations of the rocks that they were mounted upon.

Looking out over the loch we saw clouds that made us pre-emptively head back to the car. Just before we got there is started hailing, no rain, just big lumps of hail. Fortunately this didn't last long before the blues sky returned. However we have been told to make the most of the fine weather today as the rains are forecast to return.

After further meanderings we finished the day at the white coral beaches for a walk. The beaches aren't really made of coral but they are certainly white, which is rather unusual in this part of the world. The white stuff seems to be predominantly made up of crushed shell to the consistency of sand. Having said all that the main attraction here are the seals. As we approached the beach a few of them popped their heads out of the water, interrupting their play, to watch us. Then as we made our way along the beach and back, they kept pace with us playing around in the water and then suddenly stopping to have a look and see where we had got to. Evidently this is not an uncommon practice here. What we didn't see here were any otters although we were hoping too, and we have been told that they frequent this spot too. We can only assume that they are very difficult to spot amongst the kelp, and it probably helps if you know what you are looking for.

As the sun started dipping we concluded that it was a fabulous end to a glorious day. Tomorrow we leave this isle, head back to the mainland, and tomorrow night we will be in Glencoe.