Chronicle for 15 May 2012

We awoke to another wonderful day in the isles. The sun is shining and the lambs are bleating, however we aren't silly enough to go anywhere without a really good raincoat.

We're heading down country today, or rather down isle. We had planned on getting to a pottery that we have had our eye on at opening time (10am), although it seems we have slipped into island time as we will be lucky if we get there before 11am.

Nothing here is very far away, it is about 50 miles end to end, and it is very difficult to get really lost as there are very few roads and they are mostly well signposted. The signposting is probably because the locals get sick of the tourists mistaking their driveways for main roads. Often there isn't much difference. Due to the single track ponderous routes, these short distances do take relatively long times, often being limited to 30mph with frequent stops for oncoming cars. On the plus side it does force you to slow down and enjoy the isle. It also encouraged a friendlier disposition with everyone giving each other a smile and a wave as they pass. There is no point in being in a hurry in a place like this.

As it transpired we arrived at the pottery at 10:30am but we had to wait for the resident potter to wander down and open his studio once he saw that he had a customer. He had some wonderful pieces available with strong colours reminiscent of Morris & James. Most of the work that we have seen here has been very pale colours which isn't really our thing. He told us that this was because most of the work here is stoneware rather than earthenware and you can't get the strong vibrant colours.

From here we headed to Dunvegan Castle the home of the Clan MacLeod. It was interesting in that it is still a permanent residence. Apart from the usual fare of swords and portraits this castle shows off Bonnie Prince Charlie's waistcoat and a lock of his hair. As well as the drinking horn from which each MacLeod chief, including the current one, on his coming of age must drink the half gallon claret contents in one go. The 29th chief John MacLeod in 1956 downed it in one minute 57 seconds without 'setting it down or falling down'. That set the scene for a wander through the gardens.

By the time we finished there it was time for our lunch appointment. We treated ourselves today to a 'posh lunch' at a restaurant called the 'Three Chimneys'. It was a brilliant restaurant in a fantastic setting. A fairly small place in a converted crofters stone hut. The food was amazing and the service was definitely upmarket. Although because of the setting it didn't come across as being pretentious. Definitely the poshest place that we have eaten in thus far, a special treat and well enjoyed.

Our next destination was Neist point lighthouse. After meandering along a series of single track roads we parked our car in the designated spot and began our descent down a series of steps that brought back memories of part of the track up Mt Egmont. We were kept company by the sheep and fresh lambs clinging to the side of the hill. Looking back in the direction that we had come from and forwards in the direction that we were going, we were confronted with great walls of rock with a short area of pasture in between. The rock on front of us we skirted around, although many climbed to its summit, and on the other side was the lighthouse station, by all appearances long since disused. On doing a quick circuit around it we saw that there was a huge old fog horn arrangement sticking out over the rocks. This also looked as if it was many years since it has seen service. We have heard of some of these discontinued fog horns that in their day created such volume that they shook the foundations of the rocks that they were mounted upon.

Looking out over the loch we saw clouds that made us pre-emptively head back to the car. Just before we got there is started hailing, no rain, just big lumps of hail. Fortunately this didn't last long before the blues sky returned. However we have been told to make the most of the fine weather today as the rains are forecast to return.

After further meanderings we finished the day at the white coral beaches for a walk. The beaches aren't really made of coral but they are certainly white, which is rather unusual in this part of the world. The white stuff seems to be predominantly made up of crushed shell to the consistency of sand. Having said all that the main attraction here are the seals. As we approached the beach a few of them popped their heads out of the water, interrupting their play, to watch us. Then as we made our way along the beach and back, they kept pace with us playing around in the water and then suddenly stopping to have a look and see where we had got to. Evidently this is not an uncommon practice here. What we didn't see here were any otters although we were hoping too, and we have been told that they frequent this spot too. We can only assume that they are very difficult to spot amongst the kelp, and it probably helps if you know what you are looking for.

As the sun started dipping we concluded that it was a fabulous end to a glorious day. Tomorrow we leave this isle, head back to the mainland, and tomorrow night we will be in Glencoe.

Chronicle for 14 May 2012

Oh what a beautiful morning. The wind has settled, the sun is shining, the lambs are gathering together in little gangs and running from one place to another before deciding where to run to next. Looking out onto the loch we watch a fishing boat crossing between the headlands. We're fed and watered and we're ready to head out into the great outdoors. It is a beautiful day and what a great place to spend it.

Our first stop today was the Talisker distillery, not Justine's favourite drop however I am rather partial. It is great to see these distilleries insitu, they all seem to have amazing backdrops of scenery and it gives us a greater appreciation of the peculiarities of their products. This is the only distillery on the isle and is typical of the products of the western isles in that it is more peaty/smoky than their Speyside cousins.

After leaving the Talisker distillery we headed to Portree. We paused here for a while to admire the colourful little houses and to have a wander around the town. To be honest we had expected there to be a lot more here. It really is a village, although interesting in its own way nonetheless. We finished our time by having lunch in a little organic food and gallery type place who's publicity proudly stated 'food with seats'. The food was excellent and the seats served their purpose adequately. The service was serviceable, we have started to get used to the 'island time' that runs here. Things happen when they happen, not only do they happen in their own good time, but we have never seen people physically move so slowly. We have also found that if you go into any shop, gallery, food store, or gas station, be prepared for a very very long chat. Absolutely no one will let you go easily. The only exception to this rule was the young woman behind the counter in 'food with seats' who although very pleasant and with a ready smile seemed so shy as to be unable to put two words together.

From Portree we headed north along the eastern side of the Trotternish Penninsula, stopping regularly to check out the sights. We seemed to be meeting the same people at every point that we stopped at, who appeared as if they were also taking advantage of the sunshine and fair weather that we have been served up today.

Towards the northern end of the peninsula we came across the graveyard that contains the grave of Flora MacDonald, the self same wee bonnie lass that helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape these isles in his time of need. She sounds like she was a feisty lass throughout her life and quite the local heroine.

We stopped along the way at a small gallery along the way, well it was more like the front room of a local artists house. An artists work that we have seen around the isle and admired. We were greeted by his wife, a very aged but spritely and chatty wee thing who kept us talking the whole time we were there. She only disappeared to take our purchase to her husband the artist, to wrap for us. When he entered the room we daren't look at each other for fear of the giggles. We wondered if this was the product of couples who live their lives at the extremities of these isles. He was very short and stooped, he had a full but wispy white beard that reached well down towards his belt buckle, but his movements were a little like a wind up toy soldier that is running out of puff, extremely slow and jerky, as if he was almost coming to a standstill. He was a lovely old man who was happy to see everyone, give them a warm smile and a firm handshake. He didn't have as much to say as his wife as we guessed that he adopted more of a listening role. What a lovely and interesting couple, they appear to be the perfect pair, and like all of the artists that we have met here just a little eccentric ... but in a good way. They were the kind of people that made us drive away smiling and what could be better than that.

We returned home down the western coastline admiring the view, contemplating the geography of the land, and keeping a wary eye on the ominous looking clouds that have dumped their loads on us a couple of times this afternoon. We arrived home, once again casting our eyes towards the loch (Loch Snizort) hoping to see some of the seals and otters that we have been told frequent this area. We haven't had had any luck yet, perhaps tomorrow.

Until then we have been entertained this evening by watching the fresh lambs bouncing about and chasing each other to the four corners of the field before returning to the safety of their mother's undercarriage.

Chronicle for 13 May 2012

We woke this morning to the heavy rain as predicted and lashings of wind. When we say lashings of rain we mean that the rain is flying nigh on horizontally the only variable being the direction. A good day for a sleep in. They told us yesterday that the showers last evening were the first that they have had here for five weeks. We should have come here last week. Never mind, we have our Macs, which is more than what the poor little lambs outside our window have.

Regarding our accommodation it is a converted loft space in one of the many whitewashed stone cottages that we have been seeing in this area. The interior is very batch like, that appears as if it has been refitted with fixtures and furniture of the flat pack Ikea variety, including a square toilet seat that seems to be the fashion at the moment. We agree that sitting on them makes you feel a bit like a wombat, in the sense that you feel as if you should be doing square poos.

It has big Velux windows fitted along one side looking out over the couple of fields leading to the Loch edge. It is a very pleasant place to stay in a very quiet part of the country.

We have been surprised with how populated the isle is, although there is still plenty of space to go around with not only room to swing a cat but room to be beyond shouting distance of your nearest neighbour and large tracts of barren inhospitable land in between.

We left the house late today only because if we stayed in we knew we would get a little cabin feverish by the end of the day. The rain was still lashing down in a near horizontal manner with the force of the wind throwing the rain in our faces so that it felt like hail.

We took a meandering route around the isle admiring the crazy wildness of it all. We couldn't admire the view as most of it was obscured. Our mission was to seek out the art galleries that were open. It seems there is a strong Methodist contingent which insures that much of the isle remains dormant and shut on a Sunday. Each time we exited the car our prime objective was to reach shelter before being lifted of the ground and unceremoniously deposited by the wind.

Our tour around the isle involved lots of little single track roads which either ended in dead ends or perhaps the track deteriorating to the point of thinking that there had to be an easier route. We did experience the interesting sight of a waterfall instead of plunging down, it was being whipped up into a vertical plume of water much like a geyser by the wind.

We asked if this sort of weather was normal and we were told 'usually only in winter'. We were also told that we are at the same latitude as Stockholm here, a fact that we hadn't realised.

After enjoying the lengthy deliberations with the locals everywhere that we stopped we were reminded of a story; two professors of language met. The Spanish expert challenged the Gaelic expert to find an equivalent for the term 'mañana, mañana.' The Gaelic expert thought for a while and then stated that there was no word in the Gaelic language that expressed that sense of urgency. This was exactly the sense of time that we have experienced when talking to people here. This is island life and they really do have all the time in the world.

By the time that we arrived home the rain was lifting and the sun was starting to appear intermittently. The wind was still enough to blow you backwards, but we have the sense that tomorrow is another day.

Chronicle for 12 May 2012

I don't know why we got so excited about the shower it was more of a dribble, but we should have known when the toilet didn't have enough pressure to flush the paper away. The bed was nice and soft, but wee. I spent half the night with my foot on the floor to stop myself from falling out of bed. However that could have had more to do with Justine taking the lions share and me not having the heart to disturb her.

Apart from that this a wonderful place with a great atmosphere and the sun is shining!

We had another big cooked breakfast this morning (although there was no black pudding and haggis included). This will be the last for a few days as we will be self catering for the next few days which is just as well we are both starting to feel a little 'blobby'. However our justification is that with a big breakfast we can skip lunch.

We had a good talk with our hostess this morning who has done some extensive travelling herself. Such a lovely lady and a wonderful host.

We started our day by buying supplies for the next few days and then hit the road. We had a very full day today, starting by heading north towards Ullapool via Braemore. We stopped at Ullapool for a short time and spent some of that time avoiding some of our guests from last night. Ullapool is a small town that gives the impression that it was once a fishing village which has turned its hand to tourism with its little whitewashed houses and outdoor market.

On leaving Ullapool we headed back to Breamore then north around the coast towards Loch Ewe. Looking down the Loch we learned that this was the base for the Arctic fleet during the second world war and according to the accounts, the loch was so full of ships that you could step from one vessel to the other and make your way all the way to the opposite shore.

We then headed south via Gairloch and Kinlochewe and then west towards Shieldaig, south towards Lochcarron and then on towards Auchtertyre. Once there we went along the road the few miles to Eilean Donan castle. This is the classic castle of the Scottish postcard fame. Sitting out slightly from the shore protruding out into the loch presenting its best side for the cameras, of which there are plenty. Unfortunately we got there too late to have a look inside, but we did have a look around the surrounds.

We then headed back west towards the bridge across to the Isle of Skye. The bridge is a large humpbacked affair which from what we have heard has only been open for the last four years or so. We have been told that the isle isn't the same now that the bridge is there, however we expect that the benefits (particularly with tourism and everyday convenience) outweigh the detriment.

Once on the isle we passed through a series of small townships (Sligachan, Portree) before we finally arrived at our destination of Knott, which is near Treaslane on the westerly side of Loch Snizort Beag.

Before we talk about our destination we should say some more about our journey. It was a stunning day and the scenery was amazing. Driving through valley floors looking up at the hills on each side with snow dusted across their peaks. Driving up through elevated narrow single track paths with frequent passing bays for the oncoming cars. Often surrounded by the most inhospitable landscape that you can imagine with only the occasional sheep as evidence of life. At times we were surrounded by lichen covered trees, at other times it was nothing but heather and rocks, looking up at the shingle strewn slopes. Other times we spent skipping from one lochside to another. It really has been an interesting day.

Once we reached Knott we were introduced to our hosts and looked out over the farmland the short distance to the sea. Watching the sheep and their lambs and wondering if we will get to see any seals and otters as the previous occupants have done.

It started raining as we arrived, we just hope that the weather warning signs that we saw on our way here don't come to fruition ('heavy rain warning for Sunday'). We also got introduced to the local custom, no washing is to be hung outside on a Sunday. However if it is raining that will be an easy choice anyway.

We are looking forward to exploring this isle over the next few days.