Chronicle for 12 May 2012

I don't know why we got so excited about the shower it was more of a dribble, but we should have known when the toilet didn't have enough pressure to flush the paper away. The bed was nice and soft, but wee. I spent half the night with my foot on the floor to stop myself from falling out of bed. However that could have had more to do with Justine taking the lions share and me not having the heart to disturb her.

Apart from that this a wonderful place with a great atmosphere and the sun is shining!

We had another big cooked breakfast this morning (although there was no black pudding and haggis included). This will be the last for a few days as we will be self catering for the next few days which is just as well we are both starting to feel a little 'blobby'. However our justification is that with a big breakfast we can skip lunch.

We had a good talk with our hostess this morning who has done some extensive travelling herself. Such a lovely lady and a wonderful host.

We started our day by buying supplies for the next few days and then hit the road. We had a very full day today, starting by heading north towards Ullapool via Braemore. We stopped at Ullapool for a short time and spent some of that time avoiding some of our guests from last night. Ullapool is a small town that gives the impression that it was once a fishing village which has turned its hand to tourism with its little whitewashed houses and outdoor market.

On leaving Ullapool we headed back to Breamore then north around the coast towards Loch Ewe. Looking down the Loch we learned that this was the base for the Arctic fleet during the second world war and according to the accounts, the loch was so full of ships that you could step from one vessel to the other and make your way all the way to the opposite shore.

We then headed south via Gairloch and Kinlochewe and then west towards Shieldaig, south towards Lochcarron and then on towards Auchtertyre. Once there we went along the road the few miles to Eilean Donan castle. This is the classic castle of the Scottish postcard fame. Sitting out slightly from the shore protruding out into the loch presenting its best side for the cameras, of which there are plenty. Unfortunately we got there too late to have a look inside, but we did have a look around the surrounds.

We then headed back west towards the bridge across to the Isle of Skye. The bridge is a large humpbacked affair which from what we have heard has only been open for the last four years or so. We have been told that the isle isn't the same now that the bridge is there, however we expect that the benefits (particularly with tourism and everyday convenience) outweigh the detriment.

Once on the isle we passed through a series of small townships (Sligachan, Portree) before we finally arrived at our destination of Knott, which is near Treaslane on the westerly side of Loch Snizort Beag.

Before we talk about our destination we should say some more about our journey. It was a stunning day and the scenery was amazing. Driving through valley floors looking up at the hills on each side with snow dusted across their peaks. Driving up through elevated narrow single track paths with frequent passing bays for the oncoming cars. Often surrounded by the most inhospitable landscape that you can imagine with only the occasional sheep as evidence of life. At times we were surrounded by lichen covered trees, at other times it was nothing but heather and rocks, looking up at the shingle strewn slopes. Other times we spent skipping from one lochside to another. It really has been an interesting day.

Once we reached Knott we were introduced to our hosts and looked out over the farmland the short distance to the sea. Watching the sheep and their lambs and wondering if we will get to see any seals and otters as the previous occupants have done.

It started raining as we arrived, we just hope that the weather warning signs that we saw on our way here don't come to fruition ('heavy rain warning for Sunday'). We also got introduced to the local custom, no washing is to be hung outside on a Sunday. However if it is raining that will be an easy choice anyway.

We are looking forward to exploring this isle over the next few days.

Chronicle for 11 May 2012

We had an Interesting conversation this morning with our fellow guests in the breakfast room. They were telling us about their kids careers, their travels due to his work, how they spent several years working and living in various parts of Africa, including within the shadow of Mt Kilimanjaro. They finished the conversation by telling us he 'had to work tomorrow'. It was then that we discovered that he was a minister. I hadn't thought of priests and ministers regarding what they did as work in the the same way that we do. So many questions and not enough time to ask them.

We left Dulnain Bridge (near Granton-on-Spey) and headed south west towards Spean Bridge. Initially we travelled via the main roads admiring what we could of the snow capped peaks through the rain. This really is a beautiful part of the world.

Once we reached Spean bridge we started heading in a more north easterly direction alongside Loch Lochy until we reached Fort Augustus. We stopped here for a while to stretch our legs as the sun had decided to make an appearance, but also to admire the stepped locks leading up to Loch Ness. As you can imagine the 'Nessie' trinkets abound here, but we were more interested in the locks which raise and lower the boats a total of 13 metres before sending them out through a swing bridge (road bridge) and into Loch Ness.

From Fort Augustus we took the scenic route along the right hand side of Lock Ness admiring the view along the way, until we reached the Pub at Foyers, which lies at the head of the path that leads down to the Falls of Foyers. We had been led to believe that this was a very steep climb ('not mountaineering but very steep') and was a good 15 minute walk, well it was neither. We also read accounts of the likes of Wordsworth who waxed lyrical about the sight of these falls. Although impressive they don't warrant the hype. Although to be fair it may have lost a lot of its power due to the Hydro take off. It was a nice walk down a stepped path to an impressive waterfall. It is however an interesting spot where there can be found Silka Deer, Roe Deer, Pine Martens, Otters, and Red Squirrels.

We continued on to the head of Loch Ness to Dores which is the home of the Dores Inn, it is also the home of a little caravan in the inn carpark which has a sign on it saying 'Nessie-Serry Independent Research'. This is the home of a dedicated Nessie hunter. Aside from that this is a great vantage point to look down the length of the loch.

We soon arrived at our destination Inverness and checked into our B&B at a record early time of 4:30pm. Neil would be impressed. He told us before leaving NZ for Europe that we should always be checked in before 4pm. We have never yet managed to do that. He also told us that the mediterranean was dead (re: fish) we proved that wrong too. However he did give us a lot of very useful information as well.

Back to our accommodation, lovely hosts (again), lovely room, and a shower!

After checking in we went for a walk along the river before finding dinner. Once again we were impressed with the level of service within the service industry (nothing is too difficult) up here and wonder why it is so different south of the border where the attitude generally seems to be, if I make eye contact with you then I will have to serve you, which means I will have to do some work (heaven forbid!).

For now, it it back to our bed, a nice soft bed! Why do we get the best places at the places that we have booked for the shortest length of stay.